'Absinthe makes the heart grow fonder' | Food & Drink | Rock Hill ...

For St. Patrick's Day cooking this year, think outside the box of Irish favorites such as corned beef, potatoes and soda bread. Instead think about cooking with absinthe, the green and sometimes mean liqueur re-legalized in the United States in 2007 for the first time since it was banned at the turn of the 20th century.

Often called the "green fairy" because of its supposed hallucinogenic effects - part of the reason it was prohibited here and in Europe - the slightly naughty absinthe adds a unique, if not fascinating, kick to foods with its black licorice-like flavor.

"Straight-up, the flavor of absinthe is very in-your-face," says Heather Schmitt-Gonzalez, culinary expert, food writer and author of Girlichef food blog. "But when used in cooking, it lends a lilting whisper of anise to a variety dishes and ingredients."

While there are several absinthe brands on the market, the original and most authentic is Pernod, and at 68 percent alcohol, is intense and, if you're not careful, can make you absinthe-minded.

The base flavor is star anise and mint mixed with fennel, other complex herbals, and the bitter edge of wormwood or Artemisia absinthium, from which absinthe takes its name.

Legend holds that its creation is attributed to Mother Henroid of Couvet of Val de Travers, in the Swiss canton of Neuchatel, who blended the concoction from plants she found in the mountains. It soon found its way to a French doctor, who medicinally peddled it to his patients and called it "absinthe elixir." Henri-Louis Pernod opened the first absinthe distillery 1798.

Through the years, absinthe was blamed for a number of ugly incidents, including murder and other crimes, which probably served only to enhance its bad-boy reputation.

But for the curious cook, its historical mystique is part of its allure.

Schmitt-Gonzalez says when cooking with absinthe, look for ingredients that complement the flavor of the black licorice.

"Use it as you would white wine in fish or chicken dishes," she says. "Green vegetables like sweet peas, asparagus and green beans go great with it. You could also choose fresh fruits like apples, pears and ripe berries or dried fruits like prunes or raisins. Both dried spices and fresh herbs can mingle comfortably in a dish with absinthe - think seeds like coriander, fennel, anise, peppercorn and mustard or fresh green tarragon, mint or basil. I find that finishing a dish that uses absinthe with butter or cream is quite magical, as well."

Chef Daniel Castano, owner and co-founder with Michael Cirino of New York City's culinary experience A Razor A Shiny Knife, created such original dishes as the appetizer Absinthe Gelee with ingredients of creme fraiche, caviar and fennel, as well as the explosively flavorful Pernod Absinthe Roasted Duck.

"I love the taste of absinthe because it reminds me of a similar anise flavor of Aguardiente, the national drink of Colombia," he says of his native country. "I drink it on ice, using one big rock of ice."

The one caveat about cooking with absinthe is its high alcohol content. Says Castano, "It is tricky to use in the kitchen because it has such a high percentage of alcohol, and that takes time to burn off so you can use it."

Schmitt-Gonzalez, who's a mom, is careful about that, too. "Since absinthe has a high proof, it's important to use it in heated applications to dissipate that high alcohol content, especially if cooking for children. When used in its pure form, make sure it is an adults-only treat."

If you prefer to drink absinthe rather than cook with it, try it in cocktails or the traditional French drip method favored by Pernod. Just pour an ounce or two into a brandy snifter or similar glass, and then rest a flat, perforated spoon atop the glass, and then place a sugar cube on the perforations. Gradually pour about a half-cup of ice water onto the sugar cube, which dissolves into the absinthe. The cold water then "louches" into an opalescent cloud as the alcohol is tempered and the herbals open up.

Absinthe makes the heart grow fonder, so from appetizers to entrees and from cocktails to desserts, Pernod packs a serious punch for St. Patrick's Day festivities.

PERNOD ABSINTHE GELEE WITH CREME FRAICHE, CAVIAR, AND FENNEL SPRIG

From Daniel Castano of A Razor A Shiny Knife

Makes about 20 single-spoon servings

100 grams Pernod Absinthe

20 grams water

100 grams sugar

1.5 grams agar-agar

0.2 gram locust bean gum

30-45 grams caviar

50 grams creme fraiche

20 small sprigs of fresh fennel

Place absinthe, water and sugar into a pot. Heat over medium until sugar is dissolved. Place the mixture into a blender on low. Slowly add agar-agar and locust bean gum into the mixture, continuing on low speed, until just well blended. Add the entire mixture back into the pot, whisking over medium heat until it reaches 200 degrees Fahrenheit. Hold the temperature for about five minutes, stirring occasionally. Take care to not let the absinthe catch fire. If it does, extinguish it and continue to stir and simmer mixture to a gel.

Remove the pot from the stove, and then carefully and equally pour the gel into 20 flat-bottomed teaspoons. Place on a cookie sheet or other flat surface and place in the refrigerator for about an hour.

Place a small dollop of creme fraiche in the center of the gel on each spoon. Using two nonmetal spoons, shape about 1 to 1.5 grams of caviar onto the gel, leaving the creme fraiche at the front of each spoon. Garnish with a fennel frond.

PERNOD ABSINTHE ROASTED DUCK

From Daniel Castano of A Razor A Shiny Knife

1 duck

1 bunch lavender

1 cup Pernod Absinthe

1 cup sugar

1 cup water

5 gelatin sheets

Salt and pepper, to taste

Preheat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Season the duck with salt and pepper, and stuff the cavity with lavender. Roast the duck for about 55 minutes or until done.

In a saucepan over high heat, carefully flame the alcohol out of the absinthe. Add the sugar and water to the absinthe and bring to a boil. Reduce to taste, and then add gelatin sheets. Let the mixture cool until thick. Optionally, add green food coloring.

Remove lavender from the duck. Glaze duck with the gelatin mixture, flaming the cavity before serving so it smokes.

"GREEN FAIRY" CAKES

From Heather Schmitt-Gonzalez of www.GirliChef.com.

Inspired by and adapted from Becks & Posh

Yield 3 dozen mini-cakes

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: 15 minutes

"Green Fairy" refers to the name absinthe was often referred to in historical literature. "Fairy Cakes" are small, one-person cakes. Here, they come together to form tasty little "adults-only" cakes.

Cake Ingredients:

4 ounces unsalted butter, at room temperature

4 ounces granulated sugar

Zest of 1 lemon

4 ounces sifted all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom

Big pinch fine sea salt

1/4 cup Pernod Absinthe

Icing Ingredients:

1 cup powdered sugar, sifted

1-2 tablespoons absinthe

Few drops green food coloring (optional)

Finishes (optional):

Sprinkles, candied fennel seeds, or dragees

Preheat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Line 36 miniature cupcake tins with miniature cupcake liners (or grease the pans). Cream together butter, sugar and lemon zest until light and fluffy. Add sifted flour, baking powder, cardamom and salt and beat until just combined. Drop by heaping teaspoons into the waiting cake papers. Bake for 15 minutes or until the cakes have just turned golden and are cooked through. While still warm, poke each cake three times with a toothpick and brush with the absinthe.

For the icing, whisk absinthe into the sifted powdered sugar until it is the consistency that you would like it. Stir in as many drops of food coloring as you like until you get the shade of green you want. Spoon a dollop onto the top of each fairy cake.

Optionally pepper with a few sprinkles or candied fennel seeds on top of the icing or place one dragee in the center of each cake.

Notes: These cakes are so tiny that they dry out quicker than their larger counterparts. They are best eaten within a day of baking, but you can store them in an airtight container for an extra day or two and they are still fairly good.

If you want to make a larger version, use regular-sized cupcake tins and liners; you should get about one dozen. Increase the baking time by 5 minutes or so. Use a toothpick test for doneness.

Absinthe has very high alcohol content and is used in its regular form in this recipe, meaning it's not heated to dissipate the alcohol. Make these for the consumption for adults only. To make them child-friendly, do not brush with absinthe. Instead, brush with a sugar syrup mixture or skip that step altogether. Alternatively, you can substitute lemon juice for the absinthe in the icing. In this case, and as long as you use optional food coloring, they would be called Green "Fairy Cakes" instead of "Green Fairy" Cakes.

ROAST TARRAGON CHICKEN

From Heather Schmitt-Gonzalez of www.GirliChef.com

Adapted from Recipes from a French Herb Garden

Serves 4-6

Preparation time: 10-15 minutes

Cooking time: 1 to 11/4 hours

Poulet a l'Estragon in its original form is one of my favorite dishes. This is a spin on the classic, which uses absinthe to really play up the flavor of the tarragon. Plus it is every bit as rich, tempting and delicious.

1 3-4 pound chicken

4 tablespoons butter, softened

2 tablespoons chopped tarragon, divided

Pinch each of salt and freshly ground pepper

1/4 cup Pernod Absinthe

1 teaspoon butter kneaded with 1 teaspoon all-purpose flour for (beurre manie)

2/3 cup creme fraiche

Preheat oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit. Wash the chicken, and then pat dry with paper towels. Combine 4 tablespoons soft butter with 1 tablespoon of the tarragon and pinch of salt and pepper to make herb butter. Place it in the cavity of the chicken. Optionally, stuff a bit between the chicken breast and skin. Set the chicken breast side down in a large cast-iron skillet or deep stoneware bowl the same size as a cast-iron skillet. Pour the absinthe over the chicken, cover and place into preheated oven.

After 30 minutes, remove the cover, flip the chicken over so that the breast side is up. Place chicken back into the oven until cooked through, another 30-45 minutes. Lift the chicken out of the pan and set on a serving platter.

Set the cast-iron skillet over medium heat and add the beurre manie, stirring to combine, for 1 minute. Reduce heat a bit and stir in creme fraiche and the remaining tablespoon of tarragon, stirring until thickened. Pour sauce over and around the chicken.

Notes: If you like (and if you don't put any butter between the meat and the skin), try this French trick. Before cooking, bring 6 cups water to a boil. Set the chicken in a bowl that is placed in the sink. Pour the boiling water all over the chicken. Dry the chicken with paper towels and proceed. This tightens the skin of the bird, sealing in the flavors better.

If you do not have any creme fraiche, whisk together 1/3 cup sour cream and 1/3 cup heavy cream, using the mixture in its place of creme fraiche. It's not exactly the same, but in this application, it works well.

SCAMPI ROCKEFELLER

From Heather Schmitt-Gonzalez of www.GirliChef.com.

Serves 2

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: 15-20 minutes

It is often debated whether Oysters Rockefeller, the oyster dish with a sauce so rich that it was named after the richest American of the time, should be made using absinthe, Herbsaint or anise. This riff on that much-loved dish uses Absinthe - and shrimp in place of oysters - plus the oft-debated addition of spinach.

4 ounces uncooked angel hair pasta

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

5 scallions, thinly sliced

6 cloves garlic, minced

Big pinch crushed red chili flakes

12 ounces large shrimp, peeled and deveined

1/4 cup Pernod Absinthe

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

4 ounces baby spinach

1/4 cup fresh tarragon, chopped

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Jalapeno Tabasco (the green kind)

Freshly grated parmesan cheese

Bring a pot of water to a boil for the pasta. Salt it generously and add the pasta. Boil for 4 minutes, until al dente.

In the meantime, while the water is coming to a boil and the pasta is cooking, heat butter in a large, deep-sided pan. Add scallions, garlic, and crushed red chili flakes. Saute and stir until soft and fragrant, about 1-2 minutes.

Add shrimp and continue to saute until they begin to turn plink, about 3 minutes. Carefully pour in the absinthe and white wine vinegar and allow to bubble and cook for about 30 seconds. Toss in the spinach and saute until wilted, another 1 to 2 minutes.

Drain pasta, reserving 1/3 cup of the cooking water. Add pasta and reserved cooking water to the pan along with the tarragon, stirring to combine. Season to taste with salt, pepper and a few good dashes of the Jalapeno Tabasco. Remove from heat.

Serve with freshly grated parmesan sprinkled over the top and, if desired, more Tabasco on the side.

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SPICE-DUSTED SALMON WITH ABSINTHE-TARRAGON BEURRE BLANC

From Heather Schmitt-Gonzalez of www.GirliChef.com.

Serves 4

Preparation time: 10-15 minutes

Cooking time: 15 minutes

Oddly, even though this dish contains a lot of butter and uses salmon (a "fatty" fish), the addition of the absinthe and its complementary flavors makes it seem light and spring-like.

Ingredients for the beurre blanc (reduction)

21/2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

21/2 tablespoons absinthe

1 tablespoon minced shallots

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon pepper

Pinch crushed anise seeds

1 ounce (2 tablespoons) butter

Ingredients for the finish:

8 ounces (16 tablespoons) unsalted butter, chilled, cut into 16 pieces

2 long sprigs tarragon, leaves stripped and chopped

Salt

Pepper

Lemon juice

Ingredients for the salmon:

4 4-ounce salmon fillets, skinned

1/2 teaspoon coriander seeds

1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds

1/2 teaspoon anise seeds

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

To make absinthe-tarragon beurre blanc reduction, place first seven ingredients into a 6-cup medium-weight saucepan and bring to a boil until reduced to a syrupy consistency. About 11/2 tablespoons should remain. This won't take long once it starts boiling.

Remove the saucepan from the heat and immediately beat in 2 pieces of the chilled unsalted butter. As it softens and creams in the liquid, beat in another piece. Set the saucepan over very low heat and, beating constantly, continue to add the butter, one piece at a time, once the previous piece is almost entirely absorbed. The sauce should be thick.

Immediately remove from heat as soon as all the butter has been added and stir in the tarragon. Taste and adjust seasonings with salt, pepper, and/or lemon juice. Hold mixture in the pan on the back of the stove to keep warm (no heat underneath) while you make the salmon. Whisk once before serving.

To prepare the salmon, place all coriander, fennel and anise seeds in a small pan over medium-low heat and toast, shaking and moving the pan around often, 3-5 minutes or until fragrant. Grind in a spice grinder or using a mortar and pestle. Add a big pinch of salt and a big pinch of pepper; stir to combine. Lightly dust both sides of each piece of salmon with spice mixture.

Place a large skillet over medium heat and add butter. Once butter has melted and starts to foam a bit, add the salmon to the pan, the "good side" down. Cook without moving for 2 minutes. Carefully flip the salmon over and cook for another 3 minutes or until just cooked through. If you don't have a pan large enough to hold all of the salmon, saute it in batches, dividing the butter accordingly.

Remove from pan and serve immediately with the Absinthe-Tarragon Beurre Blanc.

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ABSINTHE COOKIES

Adapted from the Wormwood Society

41/2 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon cream of tartar

1 teaspoon salt

1 cup butter

1 cup confectioner's sugar

1 cup granulated sugar

2 eggs

1 cup salad oil

1 teaspoon anise candy flavoring oil

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons Pernod Absinthe

Icing Ingredients:

4 cup confectioner's sugar

1/2 cup butter

6 tablespoons Pernod Absinthe

6 drops anise oil

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 tablespoon water

1 to 2 drops green food coloring

Cream butter and sugar in a large mixing bowl. Beat in eggs until fluffy. Add oil, absinthe, lemon juice and candy flavoring oils and blend well. In other bowl, combine flour, baking soda, cream of tartar and salt. Add these dry ingredients to the creamy mixture. Wrap and chill for several hours.

Preheat oven to 325 degrees Fahrenheit. Roll dough into small balls and place on cookie sheet. Flatten each with the bottom of a glass that has been dipped in granulated sugar to prevent sticking. Bake 8 to 10 minutes. Serve as is or frost with absinthe icing when cool.

For icing: Slowly blend all icing ingredients together in a bowl until well-mixed.

ABSINTHE COCKTAILS:

ABSINTHE COFFEE FLIP

1 ounce Pernod Absinthe

1 ounce simple syrup

1 ounce milk

1 ounce espresso

1 egg yolk

Grated nutmeg for garnish

Shake ingredients over ice and double strain into a champagne glass. Top with grated nutmeg.

ABSINTHE FRAPPE

1 part Pernod Absinthe

1/4 part simple syrup

Dash Anisette

Shake ingredients over ice and strain over crushed ice in a highball glass. Optionally top with soda.

THE GINGER FRANKLIN

11/2 ounces Absolut Vodka

1 ounce ginger liqueur

1 ounce pressed apple juice

1/2 ounce freshly squeezed lemon juice

1/4 ounce Pernod Absinthe

Grated cinnamon for garnish

Shake ingredients over ice and strain into a martini glass. Garnish with grated cinnamon.

PERNOD TNT COCKTAIL

1 ounce Pernod Absinthe

1 ounce Cognac

11/2 ounce Cointreau

Dash bitters

Stir ingredients over ice and strain into a martini glass.

Source: http://www.heraldonline.com/2013/03/11/4684423/absinthe-makes-the-heart-grow.html

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